I’m tempted to say 2021 was the year of the plant-based restaurant, but I have a feeling that 2022 is going to be intensely plant-based, too. Out of the new crop, Cadence may have the most surprises up its sleeve. The chef, Shenarri Freeman, serves an exquisitely tender pancake with syrup, but the batter happens to contain both garlic and black-eyed peas, and the syrup is green with fresh sage. Lasagna with fake-meat Bolognese is rolled up, like manicotti, but also breaded and fried, like catfish. And I, for one, did not expect that when the platonic ideal of picnic potato salad finally came to New York, it would be served at a vegan tasting counter in the East Village.

Cadence

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