After conquering Chicago (Spiaggia) and midtown New York (A Voce Columbus), the Obamas’ favorite pasta chef, Missy Robbins, has set her sights on the post-millennial Williamsburg bar-dining set. The pasta gets all the press at this large, brightly lit, often cacophonous establishment, and if you order the famed agnolotti stuffed with sheep’s-milk cheese and honey, you’ll know why. But pay attention to the seafood specialties like grilled swordfish, platters of clams flavored with Calabrian chiles, and that famous non-Italian delicacy, grilled blowfish tails.

Lilia

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